Luang Prabang Day 8, 3 February 2006.

We had an early start. I did not sleep well last night because of a bad bought of diarrhea. I think it was because of the grilled fish. But then again it could have been the water used in making the sauce of the miang in yesterday's lunch. It was pretty bad because aside from the regular trips to the toilet, my stomach was aching pretty badly. So this morning, I did not eat nor drink anything. I pushed myself to walk to the boat landing. Early in the morning the town was covered in mist. Even the Mekong is not visible from where we were standing. Kaew was doubtful if we can leave early because it may not be safe for the boat to start a trip if visibility is poor. So we had to wait. Little by little the boat got filled up with enough passengers, some taking things they could sell in town. One even brought with her a goat. Finally close to half past eight, the boat started its trip to Luang Prabang. The air was pretty cold. Kaew kept on asking me to take a nap at the back of the boat. I told him, I better not because if I do, I may throw up. I did not join them for breakfast this time. It may be better for me to play it safe for the time being. I would take a few cat naps here and there. Then I noticed the boy sitting beside me. He did not seem to be as lively as the sons of the boatman who were very lively at the front of the boat. He would just sit down and he would not move at all, it looks as if he had a frozen stance. So I started to prepare to take his photograph. As I was ready to release the shutter, he moved away from the light. So I then went back to where I was sitting and once again waited.

The trip to back to Luang Prabang felt like it took longer than I had expected. It is probably because we are going against the current of the river. We finally arrived Luang Prabang at past 10am. I asked Kaew to go with me to the guest house so I can settle my bill with him. I found out on arrival at the guest house that Ms. Vahn had already arrived to pick me up at 10am. So I just put together my things and prepared to check out of the guest house. I settled my bill and then said goodbye to Kaew and was on my way to Lao Spirit, a resort located in Ban Xing Lom about an half an hour away from the town of Luang Prabang.

I was given bungalow No. 3 because it had a double bed. One of the first things I wanted to do was to take a shower. It was disappointing to find out that the water pressure was a bit low. Prior to showering, I ordered boiled rice with vegetables from the restaurant, I specified that I did not want oil or any spices on the boiled rice because I was still having a stomach problem. Unfortunately, my instructions was not carried out, I was given a thai style khao tom complete with oil and toasted garlic. So I had it returned and corrected. What I got back was better although it still had traces of oil in it. Because of the water situation, Ms. Vanh had me moved to Cottage no. 2 where there were 2 twin beds. I actually did not mind because the beds were as big as the beds in the guest house I stayed in town. Because of my stomach condition, I spent the afternoon sleeping. Then I went to the restaurant to schedule a massage and once again ordered plain boiled rice with vegetables.

6 pm, the masseuse arrives with an entourage of 2 people. She did not speak English but is able to understand my limited Thai. Anyway, Trip, the waiter accompanied her to translate just in case it is needed. Trip's English was quite good and I complimented him on this. In our conversation, he told me that he learned English while a novice in one of the temples of Luang Prabang. He stayed a novice for at least 5 years and just recently got out of the temple to work. He mentioned to me that several families sent their sons to the temples to become novices so that these boys can study in the schools in Luang Prabang. In addition to this they are being schooled in the temple about Buddhism. Life in the temple is not easy either, the monks and the novices are up at 4 am in preparation for the morning prayers, then comes the walk around town to receive the offerings of the townspeople. I have seen this in the town of Luang Prabang, I have seen this in less populated towns. Novices have to attend to chores and to go to school and finally at the end of the day is the evening prayers before they retire for the evening. While I was conversing with Trip, he sat in a lotus position. He told me that up to now he still meditates and says the sutras. I told him that for myself I had been trying to learn how to meditate but my mind is like an undisciplined monkey that I have not yet managed to tame. After my massage, the boiled rice arrived, this time done correctly, without oil and without garlic and onions, just vegetables and it tasted good. I was asleep by 8:30 PM.